Fixed rope routes

Small Daubenhorn via ferrata

Kleiner Daubenhorn Klettersteig mit Sicht auf den Gemmipass

Leukerbad

5/15°

The small Daubenhorn via ferrata consist of the first part of the great Daubenhorn Via Ferrata. For those unwilling (or not quite able) to go the whole way there’s also an opportunity to go back down to Leukerbad about 1/3 of the way into the tour.

Difficulty

Difficult

Length

8.39 km

Duration

5:00 h
Kleiner Daubenhorn Klettersteig mit Sicht auf den Gemmipass
Obere Gemsfreiheit
Ausblick auf Leukerbad von der Tysche

Description

The small Daubenhorn via ferrata is the first part of its bigger brother. It is ideal for less fit climbers who still want to venture up the steep rock face above Leukerbad. Although the shortened route is often regarded as the bad weather exit of the large Daubenhorn via ferrata, this section already offers plenty of adventure: from an airy traverse over numerous ladders to two vertical ascents of up to 120 metres in length.

The Daubenhorn via ferrata is the longest in Switzerland. With a difficulty level of ED (extremely difficult), you should not underestimate the adventure. The short via ferrata climbs 340 metres in altitude before the exit after about a third of the entire via ferrata. Allow around five hours for this first section..

Turn-by-turn directions

The via ferrata can be reached from the summit of the Gemmi cable car with a hike of about 20 minutes along a path across the legendary Gemmiwand cliffs. The starting point is near “Untere Schmitte”, where an information panel shows the fork in the route. The itinerary traverses the face of the Daubenhorn as far as “Untere Freiheit”, a steep meadow, and then takes in a long ladder before a gentle descent turning towards the left. A steep path via Tysche brings you back to Leukerbad.

Start

Gemmi Pass or Leukerbad (2336m)

Destination

Leukerbad (1398m)

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Author's recommendation

In order to start your tour from the Gemmi pass, you can also walk up to the start from Leukerbad. 

Technical information

Altitude

2359m

1399m

Ascent

+550m

Descent

-1455m

Stamina

Experience

Landscape

Best time of the year

  • Jan
  • Feb
  • Mar
  • Apr
  • May
  • Jun
  • Jul
  • Aug
  • Sep
  • Oct
  • Nov
  • Dec

Tags

  • Linear route
  • Scenic
  • Geological highlights
  • Fauna
  • Cableway ascent/descent
  • Completely cable-secured
  • Classic via ferrata
Getting there
Information

Public transport

Leuk can be reached by train (SBB), then by bus (LLB - Leuk Leukerbad Bus Reisen) to the starting point in Leukerbad. From Leukerbad you reach the Gemmi cable car by foot or by taking the local bus.

Find full timetable information at sbb.ch.

Approach

From Basel and Zurich: A1 motorway to Bern; A6 to Spiez; direction Kandersteg; Kandersteg - Goppenstein car transport; direction Gampel; Leuk - Leukerbad.

From Geneva: Motorway A1 to Lausanne; direction Sion/Sierre; Leuk - Leukerbad.

From Milan: Motorway A8/A26 direction Simplon; car transport Iselle-Brig; direction Leuk - Leukerbad.

Parking

Park directly at the Gemmi cable car or use different parking possibilities in the village of Leukerbad. Follow the local car park routeing.

Equipment

All climbers must wear a harness. Because of the risk of falling rocks along the route, a helmet is also essential.

Ensure you have sturdy footwear and appropriate clothing, and bring a small rucksack with water and a snack. A suitable pair of gloves will protect your fingers and knuckles from grazes.

Safety information

Weather conditions: before setting off to tackle a via ferrata, it is important to check the weather forecast. Bad conditions can make climbing dangerous – particularly in stormy weather.

Rockfalls: because of the risk of falling rocks – usually caused by climbers higher up or by animals – all climbers are strongly advised to wear a helmet.

Safety: always leave sufficient distance between yourself and the climber ahead. There should never be more than one person between two anchor points.

Additional information

Rental:
  • local sports shops in Leukerbad
  • Gemmi cable car

Find more information about the destination here:

Literature

Eugen E. Hüsler, Daniel Anker : Die Klettersteige der Schweiz

The tourist office in Leukerbad has got brochures and information material about climbing in the region and will give you detailled information about this via ferrata.

Maps

SwissTopo Maps 1:25'000: 1267 Gemmi

Source

This activity is brought to you by Leukerbad . Valais/Wallis Promotion is not responsible for the content provided.

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